On this hole, you launch your ball up a ramp and
onto what
looks like a stripped down skee ball board.
Assuming you don't somehow miss the board completely, your ball
will end
up in one of three holes.
If you get it in the small hole on top, your ball
will roll
straight towards the hole, giving you a good chance at a hole-in-one.
The second, middle hole, in the fattest area of
the board,
will put your ball on the green, but away from the hole.
This is the "safe" way to play the
hole, although you'll have a putt with an awkward stance between the
fence and
a bush when you get to the green.
If you miss both of these holes you'll wind up in
the
"Uh-Oh" hole which dumps your ball sideways onto a narrow fairway
quite a ways from the green.
This is a true "risk reward" hole where you can go
for the small, top hole and the hole-in-one but, if you miss it, you'll
likely
wind up in the low hole and probably be making a bogey (or worse, if
you get
unlucky). Playing it to the middle of
the board is the easier tee shot but is no guaranty of par.
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Hole #8 Tee |
Hole #8 - The "skee
ball" board. |
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Hole #8 - Where the
ball goes after the board. |
Hole #8 - Fairway up
to the green. |
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#8 Green |
This hole is based on the classic mini-golf
concept of
hitting a ball into the clown's nose or mouth and having it roll out
the other
side to the green. In this hole,
however, instead of a clown, you're hitting your ball into what is
supposed to
be part of a skee ball board.
I always liked skee ball as a kid--even though I
never
really collected enough tickets to get any decent prizes.
My brother actually put the idea of a skee
ball-based mini-golf hole in my head and I decided I really wanted to
create a
hole that was somehow based that old arcade game. It
seemed a natural to have it be a
"double hole" where you hit it into a hole or holes in one place and
it winds up somewhere near the actual hole.
This hole pretty much came out as designed,
however, the
design did not properly consider the effects of gravity.
Specifically, the top or "hole-in-one" hole often delivered the
ball to the green with too much speed to
produce holes-in-one. Conversely, the
middle hole wasn't high enough for the ball to roll all the way to the
green
consistently.
My solution to the high speed problem was to add a
flap to
the end of the gutter where the ball comes out.
The flap not only slows the ball down but also helps keep debris
from
getting into the gutter.
Still not content with the frequency of holes in
one, I
added some subtle ridges in the green to help direct the ball towards
the hole.
For the middle hole, I propped up the gutter a bit
at its
start, where it connects to the board.
The ball still doesn't roll out very far--and occasionally gets
stuck
part way through--but I actually like the fact you won't wind up with a
really
easy second putt.
My third gravity problem was that balls could get
stuck
without falling into the board's bottom hole (the "uh-oh" hole),
mainly due to poor carpentry on my part.
My fix was to add a small, thin triangular piece of wood covered
with
carpet to prevent balls from getting stuck in the right angle where the
boards
above the lowest hole meet.
The skee ball board is just plywood with holes
drilled in it
and book shelves (provided, again, by my brother) for the borders. The rings that you hit your ball into are
pieces of landscaping border left over from the loop hole.
The board is held up by plywood arms
connected to the back of the ramp with hinges.
The board is also bolted to the fence it rests against with
corner
braces. As the board is at the edge of
our property and, technically, in a utility easement, I do fear that
someday
the gas company or maybe AT&T will make me move it.
The ramp that you hit your ball up to get to the
skee ball
board is actually my old mail box that I dismantled and bent into shape
(after
I replaced it with a new mailbox). I
also glued carpet to the ramp and braced it with a couple vertical
pieces
of wood.
To connect the skee ball board to the green, I
used a metal
gutter downspout that I got at Home Depot (and cut in half). The downspouts are connected to the holes in
the board with flexible, plastic (cheap) downspout connectors I found
on
Amazon. Everything
is held together with
screws, corner braces and a little bit of duct tape. On the
green, the "hole-in-one" gutter is logically held in place with an
ever-handy downspout strap.
The flap at the end of the top downspout is a
piece of a
plastic landscape border covered with carpet and screwed into the top
of the
downspout.
The hardest part of getting this hole finished was getting the "hole-in-one" downspout connected to the board, threaded through the hibiscus bush and lined up with the hole. To increase the chances of holes-in-one, two pairs of Banzai chopsticks were placed under the carpet creating a channel to help steer the ball towards the hole (note this would be the fourth appearance of the chopsticks on this course).
Alongside the tee you stand on two more rugs
approved for “yard
use” (i.e. they were expendable) by my wife.
The left-handers rug is actually a kitchen rug with a rooster on
it—it is
meant to subtly goad golfers to not be a “chicken” and to go for the
top hole.
The tee and fairway, as well as the "lower"
fairway, are the usual plywood connected with mending plates. The ramp is screwed into the end of the
fairway board.
The green is yet another one built on top of a
pallet.
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